MUMBAI- IT'S ADDICTIVE! (XX)

23rd July, 2014 - 26th July, 2014

It was not the first time that I visited Mumbai. Rather it must be my sixth or seventh trip to this place. But this time I felt like writing about it. This time it was different- I went there almost after 5 years and it was all leisure trip (no work). Visiting Mumbai was like revisiting my life, like reliving the old memories, the old moments. When I was about to land in this place I just thought about what Pune and Mumbai (Maharashtra) gave me and it was countless- my college degree, my job, my first love, my best friend, my thinking, my identity and ME. 

I went to same places again to cherish my memories- Versova and Juhu beach, Prithvi theatre, exploring restaurants and cafes at Yaari Road. So what has changed in these 5 years- well basically nothing, I suppose! (except the new cafes in place of the old ones). 

What I miss here is the Mumbai rains, the weather, the open cafes and pubs, the beaches, the overnight running dhabbas and the autos. There was no chik-chik of bargaining and fixing fares for autos. Just tell them the place and they will put their meter down. 

Here sharing some of the happy moments which I had there:

  

IN BETWEEN THE HILLS- PANGOT ! (XIX)

23rd May, 2014- 25th May, 2014

Sitting at home one day we decided to explore an unexplored place- and while surfing we found this place- Pangot, 15 kms ahead of Nainital and we decided to start this 3 days expedition! We hired a taxi and surprisingly the taxi driver also hadn't heard about this place. We hardly slept the previous night and were busy packing , talking, searching cottages and hotels, surfing about the place. We- 6 of us started our journey at around 6.30 in morning. It was approx. 8 hrs journey and we reached Pangot at around 3.00 pm and our search for good cottages started. We hadn't booked the cottages before, we were playing luck game. There were just 4-5 cottages and one big hotel. We went in 2-3 cottages, but unfortunately all were booked. Then we went to that hotel (with a feeling that this was our last resort). We were about to book that hotel, but something stopped us and we once again thought of trying our luck. 

THE KAFAL HOUSE

We went in another cottage- THE KAFAL HOUSE- and it came as a bliss to us. Beautiful cottage with beautiful people. Despite the cottage been booked, its caretaker arranged rooms for us. The service was awesome, neat and clean and words are less to describe the food. And the plus point was that it was very reasonable. We met one more person there, probably the owner, Naresh, 29 years old, tall and handsome, living alone in a tin cottage-house and he named it as Shiva’s Den (and this was not the same as Shiva's den in mcleodganj). It was a small, beautiful tin room, with blue lights, soft music, mattresses, cushions and was filled with agarbatti smell. It was divine. We sat there for quite a while, had tea (lemon grass and nettle tea- he had his own farms).

NETTLE LEAVES

 When asked about his life he told that earlier he was working in a BPO, then started his own business, then one day he left everything and came there to stay. He had so much to tell and we had so much to ask him. We listened to his travel stories, the mountain stories, talked about our stories! For a while I thought of quitting my job as well. :-) One of his friends later on joined us and he also started telling us about his various treks and also various spooky mountain stories.

The place was full of artists. Naresh told us that Kung fu Panda summer camp was also there. While having dinner we met world famous photographer Dhritiman Mukherjee who recently had spot snow leopard in Ladakh. A very simple man. We exchanged some greetings and then he got busy in his food.

PANGOT

Pangot is a place for bird watchers. One can find around 250-280 bird species there. What is required is a pair of binoculars and DSLR (unfortunately we were not carrying the both), still we managed to spot various different kinds of birds in different colours- purple, blue, green parrots with yellow tails!

BRAHAMASTHALI

The next day we decided to go to Brahamasthali (as suggested by Naresh). It was 12kms ahead of Pangot plus around 1 and a half kms trek. I was not sure about the trek, but I still decided to give it a try (and thank God I tried). The trek was in the midst of lush green forests, sometimes it was scary also as we could hear noises of some wild animals (probably our imagination). The view, half way through the trek was mesmerising. We went till top, some 9000 ft. There was a small temple and a baba's (saint) kutiya. It was difficult to guess his age but he seemed to be old but was smart and active and he was basically famous for his chillam. We chatted with him for almost an hour. He offered us Rooafza with curd (which was very innovative and tasty) which he prepared in his small kutiya only. There was chulha also in that kutiya. Astonishingly he was well aware about the outside world- he discussed about politics, the places, the tourism. There was no TV there, but then I noticed a small radio set lying in his kutiya. He told that he listened to samachar (news) everyday. While leaving he gave us a register and a pen and told us to write something in it. He did that with every visitor. 

OUR TREK STARTED FROM HERE

HALF WAY THROUGH THE TREK

TREK

TEMPLE AT 9000 FT

In the whole trip our driver, Ravinder Singh, also played a very important role.He was of our age only and he became like a friend to us. He was cute, funny and caring. He went with us to trek. He was quite an interesting person and used to crack various jokes in between. I asked about his family and he told that his parents and sister are settled in America. He stays in Delhi with his wife and 1 year old son and trying to get visa for all of them.

OUR BELOVED DRIVER MR RAVINDER SINGH ON EXTREME LEFT

In evening we went to Mall Road, Nainital to have dinner and by night 11.00pm we were back in our very own Kafal House.

KASHMIR (XVIII)

The more I think about this place, the more I wish to go there again.

THE THIRD DAY- GULMARG

21st April, 2014

In morning we were all ready to check out from our hotel and go to Gulmarg and stay there for one night. But to our disappointment Abdullah bhaiya told us that it was an election time in Kashmir and it would be better for us to come back to Srinagar and not to stay in Gulmarg. There was curfew in Srinagar that day. This trip was going quite unexpected and adventurous. We started our journey for Gulmarg and reached there in approx 1 and a half hour. Because of our previous day experience this time we were more careful and more prompt in bargaining. We took jackets and boots on rent and entered Gulmarg. The first word which came out of my mouth was "Wow". It was the land totally covered under snow. 

We booked our tickets for Gondola (cable car). There were two phases- Phase I and Phase II. First hault was at Phase I. The land seemed to be covered under white diamonds. The snow was shining brightly. And in that cold we had coke and yummy kashmiri pulav. The local boy there offered us Kashmiri kahwa- it was the mixture of 11 different things including Kesar, daalchini, badaam etc- very tasty and nutritious. Then  Phase II took us to a height of approx 13000 ft- till LOC. Not everyone go there, but those who don't go, they surely miss on something very interesting. To my amazement the LOC was the only place where mobile signals were coming. It was windy and it was difficult to walk in that thick snow. We stayed there for almost half an hour and felt as if we were flying. We were at the top peak and all other mountains were beneath us.

THE FOURTH DAY- PAHALGAM

22nd April, 2014

Pahalgam was totally different from other places in Kashmir. All other places were mountains, but this was a valley- popularly known as mini Switzerland. It was drizzling, little snow and too much greenery. It was the 45 minutes horse trek. 

THE FIFTH DAY- SRINAGAR

23rd April, 2014  

We had our flight for Delhi in evening, so we decided to spend the day time in Srinagar only. We hired a shikara- a boat in Dal lake. We thought that it would be normal boating for an hour or so- but what we saw kept us amazed. There was a full floating market inside Dal lake. These pictures would speak it all:

In flight we were all in our jackets and mufflers  and suddenly there was an announcement "Bahar ka taapmaan 36 degree hai" (outside temperature is 36 degree Celsius).

KASHMIR - THE SECOND DAY (XVII)

Second day- 20th April, 2014

On second day we had a plan to go to Gulmarg, but our driver- Mr. Abdullah, at the end moment changed the plan and told us that we were going to Sonmarg. Anyhow that was also fine with us as we had Sonmarg also in our itinerary. Looking into our previous day experience, this time we were totally packed in our jackets and warmers and kept few woollen too in our bags in case we would be needing them in evening. Luckily it was sunny that day and there were no rains. We were heading towards Sonmarg, travelling through mountains and valleys and Abdullah bhaiya ("bhaiya" is used to address brother) playing romantic Aashiqui 2 songs (the taxi had an awesome pioneer music system).

At a point he halted at a waterfall with water travelling at a swift high-speed. That was such a beautiful start for the day. We clicked photographs (in various poses :-) ) and continued with our further journey. 

 It was approx. 2 hours journey. Abdullah bhaiya didn't have the breakfast, so he stopped to buy some chips for himself. We were sitting in the car and I was just looking around and suddenly my eyes got stuck at one point and I was not able to remove them. It was a house in a very dilapidated condition. I was tempted to get off the car to enter that house- not because of the house but because there was this cute baby, with red cheeks sitting in its verandah smiling. I immediately get off the car and told my friend to click my pics with that sweet little child. If I had a choice I would have adopted that child and bring her along with me.Her mother and sister were sitting inside the house and they were laughing and smiling and in a way were giving us a warm welcome. I asked the child's name- it was Shayena.  I could never forget the calmness, the serenity and the positivity of that child. By that time Abdullah bhaiya started honking and we had to rush towards the car.

 

We finally reached Sonmarg. There we realised that our taxi could not go further and we had to hire another taxi or horses to reach to exact Sonmarg. We were little pissed off as Abdullah bhaiya did not tell us all this before and we ended up paying a lot to the other taxi driver. The major problem was their Union system- there was no particular law as such regarding fares- it was upon us as to how efficiently we could bargain. Anyhow we reached the final destination- Sonmarg- and suddenly everything vanished, we totally forgot the thing, our moods were enlightened.  The whole land was covered in white snow like diamonds, the rustling water of Sindh river floating on a side, horses around-a beautiful sight. We played with snow like kids- throwing snowballs, floating in snow, slipping! 

While coming back we stopped at the river, had Maggie, omelette and coffee sitting on cane chairs on river-side and then retreated back to Srinagar. 

Everyone was damn tired except me :-). Everyone slept in the car but I was wide awake chatting with Abdullah bhaiya. It was election season in Srinagar and I asked him about his political views. To my amazement he told that they did not vote. They were totally against politicians and somehow had boycotted them. He in a sad voice said- "par wo to ek vote se bhi jeet jaate hain (but they even win by one vote also)". They were against army also. In Kashmir army rules. I noticed that there was army everywhere- in place of traffic policemen also. To lighten his mood I asked him about his girlfriend. He then joked " telephone ka bill bahut aata hai. Is baar 2500 rupaye aya. Bahut baat karti hai  (This time my telephone bill was Rs 2500. She talks too much)" and we burst into laughters. 

It was Sunday evening and I could notice that cricket  was favourite sport of kids there (its everywhere in India). Wherever I could see a plain plot, 15-20 kids were playing cricket there. 

Being a banker I noticed that there were not many banks there- all I could see was J&K bank. I asked Abdullah bhaiya and he told that there were few branches of other banks also but J&K was the most popular. He showed us J&K's Central Office (a beautiful brick-glass office) also.  

To end our day we went to Hazratbal Shrine (dargah)- a holy place. It contained the hair of the Islamic Prophet Muhammad. Being a girl I was not allowed to go from the front gate and I had to go from the back gate. I entered from the back gate and a policeman told me that I should cover my head. I took out my handkerchief and covered it. That man started a conversation with me- he was a polite, humble person. When I told him I was a lawyer he felt as if he had met one of his relatives. He shook my hand so tightly I almost got a jerk and he happily bade goodbye to me saying "phir aana (come again)". 

At night I was thinking about the whole day and the various people I met and somewhere I didn't mind paying that taxi driver more- I realised that tourism was their only source of earning and that too for a fixed season. Economy of Kashmir runs because of tourism. 

It was a memorable day. And while writing this blog I am realising that I am reliving those days.  

KASHMIR- THE FIRST DAY (XVI)

Four days have already passed, but I still get dreams- dreams of snow covered mountains, river floating on one side, colourful flowers and me in between all of this! These are the real dreams, the real- experienced ones. It was the most beautiful trip I ever had, this 5 days trip to Kashmir- indeed the heaven on earth! 

First day- 19th April, 2014

We boarded the flight at 7.30 in the morning and luckily I got the window seat. To my amazement I realised that I am sitting in air-plane almost after 5 years. In this one hour journey I kept looking out of the window- the view of Qutub Minar, the Lotus temple (which exactly looked like a lotus from top) was mind blowing. In around 45 minutes we entered Srinagar and the colour of the land started changing from brown to green and I realised that I was going to enter into heaven. We reached Srinagar and hired a taxi till Dal lake and our hunt for a good reasonable hotel started. Finally we got one in Rajbagh. We hired a local taxi for 5 days so that there won't be any headache of conveyance and which promised to take us to local Srinagar sight seeing, Gulmarg, Sonmarg, Pahalgam and then back to airport. 

view from Airplane

Finally our first day of journey started- local sight seeing in Srinagar- it was cold and was raining cats and dogs. All tugged up in our woollens we first headed to Shankaracharya temple- a temple devoted to Lord Shiva. It was at the hill top at a height of approx 1000 ft. I was sceptical to climb so many stairs but finally made it. I was curious as to how many stairs I climbed, so while coming back I counted them- total stairs up and down was 500. It was freezing cold and we had to take of our shoes to enter the temple- it felt as if we were walking on the ice slab. It was the small temple with a huge beautiful Shivling inside. From top of the temple we got the breathtaking bird's eye view of Srinagar (Unfortunately the camera was not allowed there because of security reasons). 

We then headed towards various gardens. Srinagar is a land of garden and shrines. We visited Chasme Shahi first- one of the Mughal Gardens, an idle place for a floriculturist! Ethereal water flowing from a dome was believed to be a holy water having all ayurvedic medicinal values good for health. People were filling that water in their water bottles. 

We then went to Tulip garden- month of April being the perfect time when all colours of tulips bloom. That sight was stimulating, rich in all sort of colours. I am still not able to believe that sight. It was unbelievable.  

After that we went to Nishat Garden and Shalimar Bagh (garden)- both unique in their own ways. It was still raining and we were forced to buy an umbrella. The sun was retreating and the temperature was decreasing. We had evening tea and late lunch in a local restaurant, our body shaking with cold and smoke coming out of our mouths. What was holding us in that cold was the sight in front of us- The Sunset at the Dal lake- stunningly picturesque.  

I realised:

Whatever happens... life doesn't stop...it goes on! I Experienced life in Kashmir!

FEAR! (XV)

All this while I was under an expression that nothing has changed and life is same as before, until I went out yesterday. We four friends planned to watch India-Pakistan cricket match at Sports Bar. The resto-bar was little far from my place. I reached home from office at around 6 and I had to reach the Sports Bar at 7. Initially I was little apprehensive to go, I don't know why, may be because of tiredness after office or may be the fear- the fear of going alone and coming back alone. It has never happened to me before. Earlier I was as fearless as a child, without caring about anything. But now I get afraid of little things and get hurt by small matters. My heart starts pounding if I have to cross the road alone or if am walking alone, my eyes become wet if somebody says a small thing to me, I easily get hurt.

The things have changed in many ways. I have to think 10 times before doing anything- what am I drinking, what am I eating, where am I sitting. Yesterday we didn't get space to sit in Sports Bar and we were looking out for other restaurants and because of me we have to change two restaurants as they were claustrophobic and smoky. 

As I had the car my friend told me to drop her at her place which was little out of the way from my house. But I had to refuse her as I was not confident in dropping her and going back alone to my house. It was just 10.30 at night and I was feeling afraid. Earlier even at 2 at night I was lionhearted.  

The reason behind this may be the protective environment which I have got in the last year- protective environment from doctors, family and friends. It was like I have just stepped out from my cocoon into the outside world and that's why I am afraid. But I hope and I surely know that soon I will overcome this fear and would be daring and spirited as before.

THE FIRST TRIP! (XIV)

I planned a trip to Jaipur (Rajasthan), the first trip after my treatment got over. The feeling attached to this trip can't be described in words. Its been two months since my treatment, and this road trip made me to forget everything and helped me to regain my confidence. Beautiful, colourful, majestic, royal- words are less to describe this pink city.

The six hours journey from Delhi to Jaipur, black smart car, highway, 80 km/h, clear sky, shining sun, breakfast at a dhaba and our discussions - everything was awesome about this journey. We stayed at MI (Mirza Ismail) road, the heart of the city. It took us a while to find a good reasonable hotel and ultimately we stayed at Hotel Natraj. A decent elegant hotel with all the facilities and nice service, it was fun staying at this place. 

The city is known for its forts- Amer fort, Hawa Mahal, City Palace, Albert Hall, Jal mahal.

Amer Fort

Hawa Mahal

As it was the festive season, Holi, the city was full of colours. We visited temples also to see the popularity of Lord Krishna at this festive season. People were clapping and singing bhajans in praise of Lord Krishna. The scene was divine. 

After getting down from auto for Albert Hall  (a museum having all the historical things) my friend stop at a tapri (a small shop) to have jaljeera. The sight caught my attention. There was a small kid selling this awesome jaljeera and neembu paani (lemon water). He was working with full enthusiasm. He was too small that he had to stand on a stool. When asked, he told that he was in fifth standard.  Probably after school he must be coming to sell jaljeera there.The sight kept me pondering for a while and made me think that my life is so comfortable and easy.

  

It was a three days trip, a trip full of peace, fun and laughter. While returning back from Jaipur, we witnessed a peaceful sight. On one side the sun was setting and on the other side the full moon has started showing it presence. A thought flashed in my mind:

If in life sun is setting on one side, don't be afraid as somewhere on other side the moon has already started reflecting the light.  

It was indeed a memorable trip.